About this Blog

This blog reflects our twin interests in walking and natural history, especially botany.



"Ich wandle unter Blumen

Und blühe selber mit ..."

Heinrich Heine





Walking is important to us as a way of being in direct touch with the environment, experiencing species and habitats in their ecological and historical context. By walking between different flower sites we experience the character of the general countryside, getting to know as much where flowers are not as where they are. Walking allows for the serendipitous - chance encounters with animals, meetings with local people, unexpected species - which enrich the experience.

We set up this blog to share a variety of mainly day-long walks centred on "iconic" flower sites and locations of rare plants, where these are publicly accessible. The accounts include descriptions of the routes taken, key plants seen, other wildlife encountered, and anything of general environmental or historical interest. All the walks allow time for looking around (some flowers need searching for), photography etc, and usually include a half-way stop for refreshment at some suitable establishment. The walks are seasonal, depending on the flowering/fruiting times of different species, although one cannot hit the peak time for all species seen on one walk, and the best timings will vary from year to year. Lengths vary but the walks may be anything up to 12 miles or more, so an early start is recommended.



A certain knowledge of our flora is assumed, but those less familiar should be able to identify most of the plants mentioned with the help of one of the good field guides - Blamey, Fitter and Fitter Wild Flowers of Britain & Ireland (A&C Black) or Francis Rose The Wild Flower Key (Warne) - although occasionally recourse may be needed to more technical tomes such as Clive Stace New Flora of the British Isles (Cambridge) or the specialist volumes published by BSBI (Botanical Society of the British Isles) on grasses, sedges, umbellifers etc.



While examining plants it is interesting to note the galls, leaf-mines and fungi (rusts etc) that are often specific to particular taxa. For galls we use Redfern and Shirley British Plant Galls, for leaf-mines http://www.ukflymines.co.uk/ (which also includes lepidopteran and other mines), and for fungi Ellis and Ellis Microfungi on Land Plants, although this is a technical tome rather than a field guide.

Our completed walk around the coast and borders of England is described on http://www.coastwalking.blogspot.co.uk/ and our current walk around the coast of Wales is on http://www.coastwalkwales.blogspot.co.uk/




Sunday, 30 August 2015

Berkshire/Oxfordshire: Wittenham Clump to Sutton Courtenay

18 August 2015                                                         OS Landranger 164

We began at the car-park immediately south of Wittenham Clump SU5692.  The Clump is a group of beech Fagus sylvatica crowning an outlier hill rising immediately from the Thames, which, while being of no great height, forms a landmark for miles around.

Wittenham Clump

Immediately above the car-park is a prehistoric fort with deep ditches.  Although on chalk the turf had few plants of interest - woolly thistle Cirsium eriophorum, chalk knapweed Centaurea debeauxii, red bartsia Odontites verna, agrimony Agrimonia eupatoria, dwarf mallow Malva neglecta, black horehound Ballota nigra.

Woolly thistle with common ragwort

Dwarf mallow

Much of it was rough grassland - a colony of welted thistle Carduus crispus had many seven-spot ladybirds, despite these creatures having become much scarcer recently.

Welted thistle with 7-spot ladybirds

A large bright pink flower close to the ground had us wondering for a moment, but it was only an escaped garden tree mallow Malva x clementii that was lying down rather than standing erect.  There were a lot of these growing at the Earth Trust Centre close to Wittenham Clump and it was obviously the source of this errant plant - amusing to think that this environmental organisation could be responsible for the countryside being overrun by aliens it has introduced!

Garden tree mallow with clustered dock

We walked from the fort northwards beside Little Wittenham Wood, a nature reserve with open access.  Along the edge were the expected plants like spindle Euonymus eyropaeus, guelder rose Viburnum opulus, black bryony Tamus communis, hawthorn Crataegus monogyna, hairy StJohn's-wort Hypericum hirsutum and wild parsnip Pastinaca sativa.

Spindle berries not yet ripe

On the downward slope we passed through a meadow with lots of yellow rattle Rhinanthus minor, some musk mallow Malva moschata and chicory Cichorium intybus, a plant that always flowers when summer has passed its best.  There was a good view down to the Thames.

Chicory



Thames from Wittenham Hill

A dried-up pond lower down the meadow gave us the first water plants that would mostly be seen again along the Thames - greater pond sedge Carex riparia, false fox sedge C. otrubae, hairy sedge Carex hirta, purple loosestrife Lythrum salicaria, water mint Mentha aquatica, gypsywort Leucopus europaeus, and yellow iris Iris pseudacorus.  There was also a bush of downy rose Rosa tomentosa.  A ditch close to the village of Little Wittenham added bulrush Typha latifolia, meadowsweet Filipendula ulmaria and great willowherb Epilobium hirsutum, as well as leaves of meadow cranesbill Geranium pratense.

Great willowherb

In Little Wittenham village it was a very short walk down the track past the church to the river. 


The churchyard seemed to favour horse-chestnut Easculus hippocastanum and lime-trees Tilia x europaea to the usual yews, but opposite it there stood an unfamiliar hawthorn, which we later keyed out to Crataegus rhipidophylla or large-sepalled hawthorn.  It had well-cut leaves that varied immensely in size and persistent sepals on the haws.

Large-sepalled hawthorn

Leaves and fruit of large-sepalled hawthorn

At the bottom of the track was a hedge of butcher's broom Ruscus aculeatus and small balsam Impatiens parviflora in a side-stream of the Thames.  At the river itself, which we crossed by a bridge and then re-crossed to the west bank at a weir, we saw additional waterside plants - marsh woundwort Stachys palustris, common clubrush Schoenoplectus lacustris with its grey stems, common fleabane Pulicaria dysenterica, hemlock water-dropwort Oenanthe crocata, wild angelica Angelica sylvestris, yellow water-lily Nymphoides peltata and two more balsams - Indian and orange Impatiens glandulifera and I. capensis.  The first heron of the day rose up with a harsh cry, but we were to see plenty more through the day.

Common clubrush under crack willow

Common fleabane

At the weir we passed over Day's Lock where boats were just being let through by the lock-keeper.
Day's Lock

Here we saw pellitory-of-the-wall Parietaria judaica, dewberry Rubus caesius and wood horsetail Equisetum sylvaticum with its distinctive branched branches.

Wood horsetail

The bank north of here had a series of old crack willow Salix fragilis pollards, along with old ash Fraxinus excelsior and alder Alnus glutinosa trees.

Crack willow pollards

One of the willows had fungi at the base of somewhat anonymous appearance until closer examination showed that they had a thick ring around the stem and a very long tap-root, sufficient to identify them as rooting poisonpie Hebeloma radicosum.  The long root in this species comes from underground dead bodies (eg mole), so that its association in this case with the willow was incidental, there presumably being mammal burrows beneath it and its hollow interior.

Rooting poisonpie in situ

Specimen showing ring and long root

Just past this tree was an old ash with shaggy bracket Inonotus hispidus.

Shaggy bracket on ash trunk

As walked along we were struck by the fact that the river provided a narrow colourful oasis of flowers in sharp contrast to the green but largely flower-less fields to the other side of us.

Purple loosestrife and bulrush by the Thames

We continued to add a few species to our list - brooklime Veronica beccabunga, water forgetmenot Myosotis scorpioides, reed Phragmites australis, hard rush Juncus inflexus, square-stemmed StJohn's-wort Hypericum tetrapterum, water figwort Scrophularia aquatica, common skullcap Scutellaria galericulata, great water dock Rumex hydolapathum, water chickweed Myosoton aquaticum, hemp agrimony Eupatorium cannabinum and celery-leaved buttercup Ranunculus sceleratus.

Water chickweed

Great water dock

Among these natives were frequent colonies of escaped common Michaelmas-daisy Aster x salignus.
Common Michaelmas-daisy

Canada geese frequently flew over us in flocks, some of them settling down in the fields behind us, where we could look back to Wittenham Clump still dominating the background.


Canada geese and Wittenham Clump

We had been hoping to find greater dodder along here on riverside nettles Urtica dioica, but these had been sparse until we got very close to Clifton Hampden, where we came across a large colony - but still no dodder, which has eluded us in every trip we have taken beside the Thames, although this is its locus classicus.  The only compensation as we approached the village was a tree of Midland hawthorn Crataegus laevigata and a flock of goldfinches on seeding spear thistles Cirsium vulgare.

Midland hawthorn

We then crossed the Thames by a road bridge, where there was greater celandine Chelidonium majus and a walnut tree Juglans regia, and continued west along the other bank of the river.  The vegetation along here was bushier and rougher and less rewarding, but hop Humulus lupulus was frequent and we added hedgerow cranesbill Geranium pyrenaicum, rest-harrow Ononis repens and common buckthorn Rhamnus catharticum.
          A low wet meadow had lots of wild angelica and also the true native form of common comfrey Symphytum officinale with its creamy flowers.

Wet meadow with wild angelica

Common comfrey

A bare arable field also provided black nightshade Solanum nigrum, field pansy Viola arvensis, common poppy Papaver rhoeas and bristly ox-tongue Helminthotheca echioides.  The land had had dredgings from the river thrown on it, including shells of the swollen river mussel Unio tumidus.

Swollen river mussel

After crossing the railway line and under a line of pylons, both from Didcot and its power station, we arrived at Culham where there was another bridge to take us across to Sutton Courtenay and the end of our exploration of the river.  At the bridge were wall-rue Asplenium ruta-muraria and fruiting cherry-plums Prunus cerasifera with golden yellow fruit.  The Fish Restaurant on the village provided a welcome lunch opportunity and rest.

After lunch we walked south past the church to the region of former gravel-pits where we turned east past several lakes.  The white water-lilies Nymphaea alba here were introduced, as they included several cultivars of various colour and the blue globe-thistles Echinops bannaticus were obviously garden escapes, although the water horsetails Equisetum fluviatile may possibly have come in naturally.  There was view across one lake to Didcot Power Station.

Blue globe-thistle



We then came across a bare dry field that was probably wet in the winter and had a number of arable plants, although it was dominated by a vigorous grass which was spreading by underground stolons and had long narrow leaves with prominent white mid-ribs.  This turned out to be Chinese silver-grass Miscanthus sinensis, which is grown as an ornamental in gardens and also used as a bio-crop.  We do not know the origin of this field of alien grass - perhaps it was a planted bio-crop in itself.  It does not flower until September or October.

Chinese silver-grass

The more expected "weeds" here were: frequent round-leaved fluellen Kickxia spuria, very little sharp-leaved fluellen K. elatine, a little bugloss Anchusa arvensis, many-seeded and maple-leaved goosefoots (goosefeet?) Chenopodium polyspermum & C. hybridum, black bindweed Fallopia convolvulus, scarlet pimpernel Anagallis arvensis, wild basil Clinopodioum vulgare, frequent common orache Atriplex patula, abundant rough sow-thistle Sonchus asper, frequent square-stemmed willowherb Epilobium tetragonum, dwarf mallow and much redleg Persicaria maculata (many plants with greenish flowers and unspotted leaves, making them confusable with pale persicaria).

Bugloss

Round-leaved fluellen

Many-seeded goosefoot

Maple-leaved goosefoot

Redleg - green flowers

We saw the violet ground beetle Carabus violaceus here.

Violet ground beetle

When we reached a cross-track the footpath ahead (which would have taken us to the outskirts of Appleford) was blocked and supposedly re-routed, but the path was now unkempt and difficult and in places non-existent or impassable.  This was probably in connection with plans for a new quarry, signs opposing which we saw all over Appleford when we got there.  Certainly the footpath mitigation was not adequate.  At one point through this difficult section we passed blue fleabane Erigeron acer and the uncommon narrow-leaved birdsfoot-trefoil Lotus glaber, much slenderer and wirier than the common species.

Narrow-leaved birdsfoot-trefoil

We eventually came out along the road into Appleford (though further away than the original footpath), passing aspens Populus tremula.  We kept an eye open for apple Malus pumila in the hedges, given that this village is named for this tree, which must have been cultivated here long ago, but it was not until we emerged on the other side that we found some in a field hedge.

Apples for Appleford

The path continued to Long Wittenham, coming quite close to the Thames once more.  As we entered the village we passed naturalised lilac Syringa vulgaris and viper's bugloss Echium vulgare.  At the main road through the village we turned NE, passing a planted hawthorn that had unusually flattened haws.  Checking this thoroughly later it was inseparable from Midland hawthorn, although we can find no pictures of this (or a hybrid) with such flattened fruits.

Midland hawthorn with conspicuously flattened haws, planted in Long Wittenham

From the north end of this village a road and then paths take one to Little Wittenham and then back up the steep hill to Wittenham Clump and the end of the walk.


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